Royal Cuisine of Amér

Amér was built by Raja Man Singh I. The ancient princely state gave rise to a royal cuisine. Amer was known for its artistic style blending both Hindu and Rajput elements. Later Raja Man Singh also the commander in chief of Akbar’s army took the legacy forward.

The proud warrior kings who went on hunting expeditions ate the meat or the fowl that they brought back for their beautiful and illustrious queens in shikars. Even today princely feasts flaunt meat cuisines that are incomparable. In contrast are the vegetarian repertoire, the food cooked in pure ghee is famous for its mouth- watering aroma. Curries are based on the use of pulses or gram flour. Dry fruits, spices and yogurt are used in many delicacies. Also the land of Jai Singh I and Sawai Jai Singh II, Amer shows off many a fine gastronomic heritage both within the palaces and outside.

In royal kitchens the preparation of food was a complex matter and was raised to the levels of an art form. The 'Khansamas' (the royal cooks) worked in the stately palaces and kept their most enigmatic recipes to themselves. Some recipes were passed on to their descendants and the rest passed on as skills to the chefs of semi states.

Cooking was inclined to the war-like lifestyle of the medieval Rajasthan and the availability of ingredients of the region. Food that could last for several days and could be eaten without heating was preferred, more out of necessity than choice. Scarcity of water, fresh green vegetables have had their effect on cooking.

Some of the popular dishes include- Karhi, popularly known as khatta, made of buttermilk with chickpea flour, mustard seeds and crushed garlic, cooked on slow heat. 'Gatte ka saag', cooked with freshly made dumplings of chickpea flour, 'badi ka saag' prepared with sun-dried moth-lentil dumplings. Khichra a porridge of millets and moth lentils that is cooked along with water, spice and some ghee in combination with jaggery or karhi forms a staple part of the diet. The hot red-chilli-and-garlic chutney, 'raabori' and millet flour cooked in buttermilk were popular accompaniments. Sangri and ker (desert berries), vegetables such as okra, jackfruit, eggplant, mustard and methi leaves. Over the years the variety of dishes were cooked with same unique techniques that passed on generation to generation. Other typical delicacies are Dal-baati, Panchkoota, Laapsi, Chaavadi, Ghoogri, Guwar fali ki saag, Papad ki sabji, Meethe Chawal.

Lal Maas meat cooked in blazing red chillies curry, Mohan Maas meat cooked in milk, Safed Maas meat cooked in curd, Saanth ro achaar pickled wild boar meat and Khad khargosh wild hare cooked and roasted underground are few highlights of the meat delicacies of this royal state. The Rajas also had a famous sweet tooth; Ghevar, Churma, Besan Chakki, Jhajariya, Halwa, Palangtorh are delicacies. Spices include red chillies, cardamom, turmeric, pepper, mustard seeds, cloves, cinnamon sticks and use of pure desi ghee, onions, garlic, ginger, dry fruits and saffron.

The selection of these truly sumptuous silver-platter is an assortment of curries, chutneys, pickles, meats, veggies, breads, rice and sweet all on one must try juxtaposition ! 

Rajputana Lal Maas

Khad Murgh

 
By : Devraj Halder

Nostalgic Food Tour of Hyderabad

Specially we in India and connoisseurs of food all over the world have had a special corner for Hyderabadi food. In Hyderabad's 400 year history the Hyderabadi cuisine has, like its culture, stood high and quite unmatched by any other place in the Indian subcontinent. In fact, Hyderabad is known for the spectacular way its aristocracy entertained. The erstwhile rulers of Hyderabad were connoisseurs of food and insisted that their cooks lay out elaborate ten-course meals on a daily basis.

The Hyderabadis do have rather unusual ways of seasoning their food. Hyderabadi cuisine is a distinct dialogue in food, based on the traditional method of combining the sour and the sweet, the hot and the salty. Hyderabad has taken the highly developed and refined Mughal cuisine of the North and imbibed it with the zesty sauces and spices of the South to create a vast and seductive repertoire quite its own. Hyderabadi food, as it has come to be known, like the city's culture, heritage and language, is a mélange of several influences--Hindu, Muslim, North, South, Indian and foreign.

As they say here, food is best created with fursat and mohabbat -- that is with time and love. Being devoted to Hyderabad means being devoted to food. Here, food is not just something to fill the stomach; it is the very essence of life. The quintessential Hyderabadi is known for his nawabi lifestyle - a gracious but rather laid-back way of life. But when it comes to food, the Hyderabadis won't tolerate any laziness and have very exacting standards.

Welcome to the treasure trove of heritage Hyderabadi cuisine at its best, whether in the form ustaad’s legacy or nawab’s rendezvous.

In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful... !

Spectaculer dishes include Jhinga Talawa( a delicately pan-fried prawn), Khorme Ka Kebab( pounded meat kebabs served with til ki chutney), Dum Ka Keema( charcoal flavored minced meat with papaya and serve with garlic raita), Mutthi Ke Kebab( from old world muslim elegance a  with spicy gravy), Bina Masale Ka Murg ( a simple marination representing the true essence of the tender chicken ), Shami Kebab (Pan-fried kebab prepared with lamb and tastes best after you get to see the sacred moon of Eid ! ), Nizami Lukhmi( a traditional preparation), Kheemey ki Lukhmi, Tootak (The baked delicacy has rich semolina dough encasing a appetizing cottage cheese and potato filling), Aloo Ke Garlay( This is an ostentatious version of the popular batata wada )Boote Ke Samose (crispy samosa with spicy green gram filling) ,Hari Bhari Mirchi (stuffed chili with mint chutney ), Faluda( a refreshing dessert) and finally the Irani Chai( popular tea from a Charminar fete ! )

By : Devraj Halder

Gourmet Tour - The Streets of Istanbul

My 'tasting-notes' now take you on an enchanting and gastronomic journey of the imperial city of Istanbul which features a cuisine with wide variety of ingredients and cooking styles which include dishes and ideas from the cuisine of Jews, Greeks and Armenians.

The Southeast and the East are known for dishes based on cracked wheat and meat with hot spices while the Aegean for their olive oil delicacies enhanced with local herbs.

The narrow and cobbled streets of Istanbul are abuzz with exotic foods like gyros, grills, fried meats, kebaps, stews, meat cooked in a crock or pan, simit; a bread like a bagel and börek.

Turkish cuisine is believed to be one of the three richest and oldest cooking traditions of the world together with French and Chinese cooking.

A gourmet tour can be exotic. You can savour a long list of Turkish delicacies. It is like biting into a large slice of history ;

Doner Kebab

homemade chicken gyros, thinly sliced and served with bulgur salad, mezze and freshly baked lebanese breads

Schwarma

homemade lamb schwarma, thinly sliced and served with bulgur salad, mezze and freshly baked lebanese breads

Mevsim Salata

lettuce, sliced tomatoes, cucumbers and feta cheese served with olive oil, lemon juice and a drizzle of vinegar
Coban Salata

diced tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, roast aubergine, dill and onion dressed with olive oil, lemon juice and vinegar

Kisir (Tabuleh)

cracked wheat lightly flavored with tomato paste, parsley and onions

Izgara Kofte ( Turkish Style Meatballs )

ground lamb kofte served with salad and hummus

Chicken Sheesh Touk

turkish sheeh kebab served with mezze and freshly baked lebanese breads

Lamb Samboussek

deep fried lebanese pastry filled with minced lamb and pine nut

Fatiyer bil – Sabanegh

spinach and haloumi cheese filled pies paired with mezze

Falafel

chick pea and parsley crispies with mezze and pita breads

Breads

Taze Gevrek

delicious crispy simit (turkish bagel)

Ispanikli Börek

traditional spinach and cheese baked filled pastries made of a thin flakes

Dessert

Baklava

sultans homemade buttery dough filled with nuts and served with honey syrup

Mohallabiah with Almond

delectable signature dessert from mediterranean region

By :

Devraj Halder

Tajik Cuisine - The beginning of the spice trail

Tajikistan means the ‘Land of the Tajiks’. In medieval Persian literature, Tajik appears as a synonym of ‘Persian’. This mountaneous land locked country with Persian speaking Tajik ethnic group, the territory of which is now the Republic of Tajikistan has been inhabited continuously since 4000 BC. It has been under the rule of various empires throughout history, for the longest period being part of the Persian Empire.

Arabs brought Islam in the 7th century, more or less forcing the people to convert. The predominantly ethnic Tajik cities of Samarkand and Bukhara remained in the Uzbek SSR. The proportion of Russian among Tajikistan's population meanwhile also grew. Post the political turbulence and the civil war Tajikistan is officially a republic and holds elections for the presidency and parliament. The government of India rebuilt the Ayni air base, a military airport southwest of capital Dushanbe, It is now the main base of the Tajikistan air force.

The long and eventful history of the Tajiks have given rise to a varied and enigmatic cuisine.

The Persian lineage and the muslim community has given the cuisine of the Tajiks its own personality with characteristic influence like the usage of abundant dried fruits, local fresh fruits and vegetables, goat milk yoghurt, robust home made breads like rye, wheat and non, hearty soups like the solyanka, great varieties in unique sheesh kekobs, aromatic and rich pilau, sambusa, lemon cake and much more. The Tajiks believe in festivity and their culture is equally glamorous. The food is hearty and delicious. 

A typical meal starts with Halva ( essentially made of wheat ). Appetizers include Shashlyk Lipioshka ( tender lamb shashlik served with flat bread and sliced onion) , Seekh Kebob ( minced vegetarian and meat on skewers), Sambusa (minced turkey filled fritters), Vatushiki (spinach and cheese filled deep fried crispies). Popular soups are Shorpur Laghman (meat and vegetable soup with noodles), Kaurmo Shurbo (vegetable soup ), Mastoba ( rice soup ).

Choykhana is local green tea which accompanies a hearty meal. Other beverages include Kefir ( fermented milk beverage ).

Some typical salads are Hissar (traditional tajik salad), Stuffed Aubergine Salad. Fresh whole fruits, fresh whole vegetables and a variety dried fruits and nuts are a regular part of a balanced meal. Several dips and dressings are also prepared to lend variety and compliment a meal.

The main meal includes Mantu or Tushbera (similar to ravioli with vegetable/ meat and spices), Shakhlet, Kaurdak kaimak (roast meat servedwith fried onion and sour cream), Golubtsi (Stuffed cabbage rolls with tomato broth), Qurutob (baked vegetable with salted yogurt and flaxseed oil).

Oshi Pluv ( traditional tajik pulao) and Domlama (mutton with assorted tajik vegetables) are delicious rice preparations, provide great insight on the Biryani that we eat today how it evolved from Persia !

Breads include Non, Sambusa Baraki( tajik bread), Katlama (puff flat cakes).Typical desserts are Shirbhirinj (milk pudding) and Halvaitar (liquid flour halva).

It is mystical to think and realise that it all started here the beginning of the spice trail from the Turkish coasts all the way to China and also to Afghanistan and further to India. Tajikistan played such a pivotal role and the thoroughfare helped cultures change hands along with the passage of bounty that the trail witnessed for centuries !

By : Devraj Halder

Thai - The sensory high !

Exotic Thailand conjures up enigmatic visuals according to taste and temperament. To some the country is a fantasy of royalty in spirituality of gilded temples and palaces, to others a palm-fringed beach of snowy white sand, an exotic tribal village high in misty mountains or the brassy, cosmopolitan lure of Bangkok or even the exotic nightlife. All are valid enough as individual impressions, yet misleading in terms of the whole for Thailand, like the nation's food, is a complex mixture of flavors and the product of a unique history.

Thailand is not a very big nor a very rich country, but it is unique. It has a way of life that mixes ancient ritual with the ways of the modern world. Thailand is most fortunate, with both the land and surrounding seas yielding rich harvests. The staple, rice, is grown in abundance, as do the numerous varieties of vegetables, fruits, herbs, and spices that enliven the Thai palate. Despite all the problems of the modern world Thailand still has much of old Siam.

The Thais are great eaters, not necessarily in quantity but in the way they relish their food, appreciating individual tastes and subtle combinations of dishes.

Thai cuisine as we know it today traces its history back into the far past and has undergone numerous changes and adaptations. It nevertheless retains its distinctiveness which makes Thai food highly popular among connoisseurs of fine dining the world over. Thai food will certainly bring an even wider appreciation of its many delights.

Welcome to one of the worlds great cuisines. This is food you can enjoy cooking as much as eating. Like the word 'Thai', which means 'free', Thai cooks are never rigid in their approach. So be flexible in your interpretation of the recipes, particularly when you are not always able to find every ingredient. Thai food combines the best of several eastern cuisines: the oriental bite of Sichuan Chinese, the tropical flavor of Malaysia, the creamy coconut sauces of southern Indian and the aromatic spices of Arabian food.

As Thai food is delicious, nutritious and easy to cook, it has become exponentially popular all over the world. The national style of cooking finds a well deserved place in global culinary culture due to its unique combination of spicy-salty-sweet-sour taste of this very special Asian cuisine. The present day cities throughout the world have more new Thai restaurants which skillfully combine and refine the available ingredients along with traditional ones resulting in dishes with exciting character.

The people of Thailand do not use knives and forks but forks and spoons, holding the fork in their left hand to help get the food onto the right-hand-held spoon. Each spoonful should be moderately filled to conform with accepted custom. Eating by stuffing the mouth full is considered impolite. There shouldn't be any sound of scraping the utensils on the plate nor should there be grains of rice on the lips. The Thais do not scoop portions onto their plates as home style serving in the west tends to do. They share from a common dish, taking only enough for a bite or two at a time. This way one avoids seeming too greedy and everyone has an ample share of each dish.

The ideal Thai meal aims at being a harmonious blend of the spicy, the sweet, and the sour and is meant to be satisfying to the eye, nose, and palate. Mouth-watering, different, Thai food is basically 'chilli hot' at times blended with subtle additions of locally grown roots, grasses, and aromatic herbs to lessen the 'bite'. The use of spices and aromatic plants such as sweet basil, mint and galangal which enhances the flavor of Thai dishes. Thai food appeals to more than taste alone, it is infact a sensory high !

A dish should appeal equally well to the eye and most as well as the taste buds. Thai food is an original and rich amalgamation of evocative aromas, subtle blends of herbs and spices and contrast in textures and tastes. A single-word summation of Thai food would not be 'heat' but 'harmony', a harmony of tastes, colors, and textures designed to appeal to both the eye and palate. Besides the qualities of pleasant appearance and excellent taste, Thai food is recognized as one of the most outstanding culinary creations in the world.

A few ingredients that cannot be substituted are: coriander root which is used both as an ingredient in the cooking and part of many marinades; coriander leaves which are used for cooking and garnishing. The 'Nam Pla', a fish sauce which adds saltiness and bring out the finer flavors of other ingredients. Coriander is an acquired taste and although parsley is sometimes suggested in recipes as an acceptable substitute, its use will certainly result in a great loss of 'Thai-ness' in the cooking.

The Thai prefer to eat polished rice, tending to look down on untreated rice as inferior. Long grain rice is cooked, usually steamed to a light and fluffy texture with out the use of additives such as salt, the seasonings and spicy sauces being served seperately and added according to individual taste.

A large container of rice is always the centerpiece. Surrounding the large central bowl of rice there will be several dishes offering a balanced selection of flavors and textures. In addition to the rice, a typical meal might include a soup; tom yum, a curry; gaeng, fresh vegetables; yam, a fried dish; phad, a spicy hot dipping sauce; nam prig and a steamed one. The soup is served together with the other dishes whereas western customs is to serve the soup to start.

A full composition of a typical Thai meal would be rice, curry, soup, fried dish, salad, dipping sauce with fresh vegetables, steamed or grilled dish, solid dessert, liquid dessert and mixed fruits.

                          Koong phad kraphaw; shell lobster with chilli and holy basil

                                                         Tom yum soup

                                        Phad phak ruam mit; stir fried vegetables

                                    Kaenu khieuwan kai, chicken in thai green curry

                                               Mee krob; crispy thai glass noodles

                       Phad thai; aromatic thai rice-stick noodles with roasted peanuts

         Sang khaya fak thong; fresh pumpkin and coconut custard in lemon grass cannoli

By : Devraj Halder

Tribal Cuisines of Uttrakhand

Tribal Cuisines of Uttrakhand bring you some never before experienced flavours from the lap of nature, abode of the great Himalayas and the holy beaches of Ganga. This is food of the 'Dev Bhoomi', the unexplored cuisines of Uttrakhand. It is like an auspicious expedition to explore the land of the gods, a cuisine so appealing that it makes it a heavenly experience.

The land belongs mostly to the Pahari, Garhwal and Kumaon regions of Uttrakhand. The food is extremely nutritious to suit the high energy requirements of the hilly and cold climes. The food is cooked traditionally with love and affection over charcoal or wood fire.

The food of this Dev Bhoomi is highly influenced by the topography and lifestyle of the people. The culture of the people can be found extravagantly in their festive food. People of Uttaranchal are fond of both vegetarian a well as non vegetarian food. The characteristic feature of tribal cuisines of Uttrakhand is the sparing use of milk and milk products. This is due to the fact that in most regions of Garhwal and Kumaon the cows do not yield good quantity of milk. Rice is the staple food of the people, but the favorites are the lentils. The most famous dish is Bhatt (a variety of soya bean) and the rust brown Gahat also called Kulath. Among other lentils delight are large dried balls of urad dal, called badis and their smaller version prepared from moong dal called mangodi. These delights are consumed mostly during the winter seasons.
One of the common culinary delight of Uttrakhand comprise Munduva (buckwheat), which is a coarse grain with high fibre content. The use of tomato is minimal and food is essentially cooked in mustard oil or pure ghee. Very interestingly, hash seeds, locally known as Bhanga are used as spices.

The popular sip is Jaya; a salted tea, Chaans Dunghar; butter milk tempered with chives is great to start a meal with. Appetizers include Birude; a tangy preparation of black channa and peas, Panchola; a tender lamb in local spices is quite an experience. Bhutwa are lamb intestines cooked in local spices on charcoal heat.

Bhatt ki chatkaney is soybean tempered in ghee along with onions and garlic in a gravy, served with rice. Pahadi karele ki subji are from thorny karelas cooked dry in tangy masala preparation, Haalang ki subji is local green vegetable cooked in buttermilk, Dhare ki subji is colocasia roots cooked in a traditional recipe, Toopki; whole spinach leaves cooked in iron wok and stirred continuously until smooth in texture. Palyoo is a delicious local curry made out of buttermilk. Other vegetarian repertoire also includes; Aloo ke Gutke, Sani hui Muli and Nimbu, Singodi, Kumaoni Raita, Kandalee ka Saag, Kaafli and Kulath Phanu.

Rice preparations include Bhaat a steamed red rice, Zaula; Rice cooked in buttermilk and Khaza which is a sweetened rice. Breads include Seeyal; made out of ground rice, Madé; a bread made out of rice flour batter, Puwa of rice flour. Roté is a bread made out of wheat flour, jaggery, milk and deep fried. Quaraal ka raita are flowers of a local tree blanched and mixed in sour buttermilk.

The popular Bhang ki chutney is a dip made with hash seeds. Til ki chutney is a flavourful sesame seed chutney, Kumouni raita is made with cucumber and tempered with mustard. Desserts include; Bal Mithai; a local sweet from the region, Arsa and Gulgul; Jhangora Ki Kheer.

What makes the food of Uttrakhand such a delight is the way the people of the state present it and the sincere hospitality with which they treat their guests.

The majestic himalayascapes of Uttrakhand bring you these rather aromatic and earthy delicacies from the simple abode of the tribes who live here. 

By : Devraj Halder
N.B. : I thank my friends Sukhangad and Sunil for their contributions.
 

Delhi Delights

Delhi, Dilli or Dehli , the national capital gets its name from the Persian word Dahleez meaning frontier or threshold. Over the centuries, Delhi has changed hands, and served as a frontier or threshold of India to Rajputs, Arabs, Afghans, Mughals, English and not to forget the immigrants from Punjab and Sindh Districts.

The history of Delhi has given the city a transient personality which is observed in the culture, people, places and the food. Delhi is also arguably the food capital of India. The city is crawling with restaurants of all variety and vintage.

Mughlai cuisine is unsurpassed in Mughal emperor Shah Jahan’s city, now called the Old Delhi. Karim’s, Babu Khan’s near Jama Masjid, Kallu’s Haleem, Nalli Nahari, Stews, Korma, Chicken Fry and offcourse the Biryani’s. They take fierce pride in having successfully preserved the culture of the Mughlai cuisine in face of the Tandoori onslaught.

Delhi brings you traditional preparations from Chandini Chowk which is still revered as the best place to sample foods from the Mughlai cuisine, be it main course, sweets or snacks. Chandini Chowk has also managed to hang on tenaciously and determinedly to that unique charm from another era. Most of the shops here date from the previous century. Chaat, the quintessential appetizers need no introduction and we would have the bhalla papdis along with tikkis and chilas also with exotic fares like palak patta, stuffed fruits, shakarkandi ki chaat, raj kachori, lacha tokri, dal moth so on and so forth. It is also the right kind of weather for the Chole Bhature and Aloo Bedwins. The Indian masala corn on the cob or bhutta and Delhi’s very own stuffed bread pakodas is something you surely will relish.

There is Paranthewali Gali which is said to have been officially brought to Delhi by the Punjabis, but unofficially it had been eaten in Delhi for ages. For Punjabi food like the ones in Pandara Road and Karol Bagh there is fare to greet.

Sweets of Delhi at Ghantewala Halwai, you can relish the sohan halwa, shahi halwai, karachi halwa, barfis and namkeens. Also need to mention the Desi Ghee Ka Jaleba, Daulat Ka Chaat, Rabdi Falooda. More Punjabi fare of sweets would include Gajar Halwa, Moong Dal Halwa, Kesar Doodh, Dodha, Pinni, Atte Ka Laddoo, Malpua, Imarti. the list is long and the sweets on offer are truly heritage.

The traditional cuisine of Delhi takes you through a nostalgic journey of food, aroma, culture and heritage.

By : Devraj Halder

Khad - The Earth Cuisine !

Khad or ‘earth’ cuisine developed in one of the hottest corners of India in Rajasthan. It is a type of dessert cuisine also practiced by the nomadic tribes of  Rann of Kutch. There is evidence that the cuisine was also practiced in the Multan region which is now in Pakistan. The name also originates from the 'pit method of preparation'. In times when cows were plentiful but refrigerators not invented,  milk and its products had to be used up quickly. Khad cuisine use limited water and natural resources. Instead of water which is scarce, sweet buttermilk is used to make gravies and sauces in many of the dishes.

The cuisine is nutritious and filling. Besides onion and tomato, spices like cardamom, mace, bayleaf and cloves as masala are used. This cuisine is unique in aesthetic appeal and tastes are different and unusual. The dishes are cooked and served in mud pots.

The winters are here and it is a great opportunity to enjoy some earthy food. The spices, rich flavours and aroma make it a unique experience.

The cuisine showcases earthy preparations like ; Zamin Doz Machli ( exotic preparation of fish cooked in the earth ), Mutton Khad Keema (slow cooked meat in the traditional way served dry and spicy), Jungli Murgh (spring chicken flavored with cardamom, mace and saffron cooked in its own juice), Sondhi Subzi (earth fragrant melange of vegetables ), Multani Aloo (stuffed potatoes roasted in a clay oven), Kaer Sangri (desert berries and pods ), Matki Dal (math dal;  in a distinct taste and flavor), Bajre Ki Roti ( millet bread ), Pathar Ki Makki Roti ( corn bread cooked on a stone ), Lapsi ( broken wheat pudding )

Sondhi Subzi (Earth fragrant melange of vegetables )

By : Devraj Halder

Flavours from Karaikudi

Karaikudi is the largest city in the Sivaganga district of Tamil Nadu known as the capital of Chettinad because of the predominance of ‘nattu kottai chettiars’ who have  ventured far and wide to set up their businesses since the turn of the 20th century.

Chettinad also translates to ‘chetti land’, the ancestral abode of the chettiyars.

Their type of cooking is also called as ‘Achi Samayal’. The foods are cooked with special masalas using a unique processes.

Karaikudi specialities are; Masala Cheeyam, Kozhi Varuval, Attu Kari Milaku, Karaikudi Meen, Adhirasam, Mochai Kulambu, Mutdai Kosh Poriyal, Keerai Vathakkal, Vengaya Thiyal, Kandharappam, Thalicha Idiyappam, Veechu Parotta, Paladai Dosai, Paniyaram, Chettinadu Kapi, just to name a few.  

Earthenware, curries, poultry, seafood, grills, vegetarian delights, local breads, rustic preparations, sweets and coffee are part of a fabulous dining experience called Karaikudi.  

Spice blends are skillfully orchestrated to bring you the aromas which are worth remembering and takes you through another culinary quest and nostalgic journey of the heritage cuisines of India.  

Vazhakkai Vada ( Serves  10 )

Skinned Raw Banana ( small pcs )                    01 kg

Soaked Dhuli Urad Dal ( paste )                          400  gms

Coconut Oil                                                                     to temper

Mustard Seeds                                                              01 tbsp

Fresh Curry Leaves                                                     02 tbsp

Dry Red Chilli ( small pcs )                                      01 tbsp

Cashewnut broken                                                     04 tbsp

Turmeric Powder                                                         01 tsp

Salt                                                                                       to taste

Lemon Juice                                                                    half lemon

Refined Oil                                                                       to deep fry

Preparation

Take the coconut oil in a thick bottomed kadhai, add mustard, curry leaf, red chilli, cashewnut and turmeric. Add the banana and salt. Cover and cook till the banana is soft. Squeeze in the lemon juice. Cool the sautéed banana, mash it lightly with a fork and mix it with the dal paste nicely . Make nice round dumplings and deep fry in refined oil. Serve immediately with a chutney of your choice.

By : Devraj Halder

Murshidabad Cuisine - From the Kingdom of Murshid Quli Khan !

The heroics of Nawab Murshid Quli Khan and how in 1704 the nawab changed the seat of power from Dhaka to this district on the banks of the river Ganges is a tale etched in history. Even after the fall off Bengal to the British, Murshidabad still held on.

Murshad Quli Khan aide to  Emperor Aurangzeb is the true founder of this ancient district. The Murshidabad Palace among many other royal buildings from this era still stand tall and is a magnificient piece of Italian architecture known from its times.

The cuisine of Murshidabad is distinct. The royal cuisine of the nawabs and the delicacies of Bengal have amalgamated over the centuries to a truly rich heritage cuisine with amazing earthy flavors. The influence of the Mughals can be distinctly seen in the preparation of mutton in Murshidabad. The cuisine also show glimpses how the expensive and rich ingredients used by the Mughals were toned down and improvised by the natives of this land in a cost effective fashion resulting in what surfaced as the delectable Murshidabadi cuisine. We see succulent potatoes in the meat curries, there is abundant milk used in sweets, the nuts have got replaced at places with poppy seeds and all this without diminishing the heavenly taste and aromas of the food. Traditional desserts were basically prepared with the pastes of jaggery and sugar. The usage of milk has been gradually increased along with cream sugar and expensive spices like saffron and cardamom. Murshidabad is also known for its mangoes, litchis and silk. 

This amazing cuisine from a glorious era includes; Tikia, Jhal Tengra, Dar Chini Gosht, Dhuki Haser Gosht, Tok Murgi, Murgir Korma, Shiraji Murgir Goleya, Oal Korma, Tostori Mocha, Lal Bagh Mushur Dal, Murshidabad Murgir Biryani, Seekh Kebab, Badi Pholodi, Kolayar Dal, Chitua, Shiraj Porota, Chana Boda, Chanar Polao, Poshto Halwa. Some recipes are as below :

Tok Murgi (  Serves Four )

Chicken ( Cut into small pcs.)  01 kg.

Onion Sliced                           300 gms

Mustard Oil                            50 ml

Jeera Powder                         20 gms

Dhaniya Powder                     20 gms

Haldi Powder                          10 gms

Red Chilli Powder                  10 gms

Green Chilli Slit                     04 nos.

Tamarind Pulp                        100 gms

Ginger Garlic Paste               50 gms

Salt                                          To taste

Whole Garam Masala           25 gms

Preparation :

In a thick bottomed vessel, pour the mustard oil, garam masala add onion, sauté till golden brown.

Add the chicken and sear for 05 mins. Add ginger garlic paste and powdered spices along with the pulp. Cover with lid and allow to cook till tender. Put green chilli slice and salt to taste. Sprinkle with chopped coriander before serving.

Postor Halwa ( Serves Four )

Khus Khus                              01 kg

Khoya                                     100 gms

Milk                                        150 gms

Sugar                                      250 gms

Cardamom                              04 nos.

Saffron                                    01 gm

Ghee                                       200 gms

 

Preparation :

Take a vessel, put the ghee, add green cardamom. Now add khus khus paste. Saute it till the raw smell of khus khus disappears. Gradually add milk and khoya along with the sugar syrup. Cook till the ghee leaves the sides of the vessel. Garnish with saffron.

Tikia ( Serves Four ) 

Lamb Minced                                       500 gms

Ginger & Garlic Paste                           50 gms

Chopped Onion                                    100 gms

Matar Dal ( Dried Peas); Soaked and Ground   100 gms

Chopped Green Chillies                        25 gms

Raw Papaya Paste                                50 gms

Salt                                                      to taste

Ghee                                                    To Shallow Fry

Preparation :

Mix all the ingredients and keep it aside for atleast 02 hrs.

Divide the mixture into 20 roundels. Flatten them with wet hands and shallow fry in desi ghee.

Murshidabad Murgir Korma ( Serves Four )

Chicken ( Cut into small pcs.)               01 kg.

Tamarind Pulp                                      200 ml

Brown Onion Paste                              200 gms

Cashewnut Paste                                  100 gms

Poppy Seed Paste                                50 gms

Ginger & Garlic Paste                           50 gms

Salt                                                      To taste

Ghee                                                     200 ml

Whole Garam Masala                           30 gms

Saffron                                                 01 gm

Preparation :

Heat desi ghee in a pan, add the garam masala. Add the tamarind pulp and the four pastes. Cook on medium flame. Add the chicken and little water. Add salt. Cook till the chicken is tender and the gravy is aromatic. Add saffron to finish. Serve with steamed Gobindo Bhog Rice.

                                                                       Tok Murgi

By : Devraj Halder

Anglo-Indian Cuisine

The Anglo Indians, off springs of a confluence between the British soldiers during the early day of East India Company in India and the native Indian women, were till 1911, universally known as Eurasians. For occupational purposes and as a point of differentiation from the Europeans and the Indians, they were designated Statutory Natives of India; while for the defence of Empire purposes, they were called European British Subjects.

The Anglo-Indians were more "Anglo" than "Indian". They spoke English and followed Christianity. There was a visible influence of Christianity in their customs and traditions. While most of them married within their own Anglo-Indian circle, there were many who continued to marry expatriate Englishmen. Very few, if any, married Indians. The same rigid social barriers that the British erected between themselves and the Anglo-Indians, also existed to isolate the Anglo-Indians from the vast majority of Indians.

Their so called supremacy over the native Indians however, took a jolt when India finally broke the shackles of slavery and walked into freedom on 15 August 1947. The British packed their bags and their memories—and went home to "Blighty".

There were however, some 300,000 odd people of European and Indian descent, who were not happy to see the back of the British. These were the Anglo Indians, left in a twilight zone of uncertainty, with the British Empire making no effort to offer its swarthier sons any hospitality in the land where their forefathers had been born.

Many Anglo-Indians, apprehensive of changes that would surely come with India’s independence, chose to leave India. The 1950s and 1960s saw a steady stream of departures as about 150,000 Anglo-Indians, seeking wider horizons and better job prospects, emigrated to Australia, Britain, Canada, the US and New Zealand.

Those who decided against migrating, did not have a choice, but to merge with the socio-cultural fabric of the developing India. And some of the most glorious results of this assimilation took shape in the kitchen, the territory of the memsahib (Lady of the house) and her trusted Khansamah (cook).

The Anglo-Indian Cuisine is an amalgamation of the tastes and spices of the region. The recipes take the best of both European and Indian cuisine with some alteration by adding or substituting some of the ingredients so that a completely different cuisine evolved over hundreds of years. The very popular Vindaloo, Bebinca and Dodol are legacies of the Portugese, while the Roasts, Bakes, Bacon and Eggs are typically British.

The very nomenclature of the dishes is unique and synonymous with the Anglo-Indian Community's vocabulary. The normally bland western cuisine was given a dash of exotic Indian flavour. Thus a completely new contemporary cuisine came into existence making it truly “Anglo” and “Indian” in nature, which was neither too bland nor too spicy, but with a distinctive flavour of its own. It became a direct reflection of the multi-cultural and hybrid heritage of the new colonial population. Many of the dishes have a unique history. The very popular and familiar curry dish “Vindaloo” is derived from the Portugese word Vinha De Alhos, i.e. from the two main ingredients in it, which were "Vinho", meaning wine or wine vinegar and "Alhos", meaning garlic. It was originally a vinegar and garlic-based watery stew made with pork or meat in Portugal. However after the Portugese introduced it in India, it was completely revamped with the addition of spices and chilies and over the years it has become one of the spiciest and most popular curry dishes all over the world.

Grandma's Country Captain Chicken was a very popular dish during Colonial times since it was very easy to prepare. In those days, the poultry used in its preparation were authentic well-fed, homegrown country chickens, which would take at least two hours to cook over a firewood oven, but the curry when done, would be rich and delicious. Mulligatawny Soup was also very popular during the Raj Era. It was the anglicised version of the Tamil “Melligu-Thani”- Melligu meaning pepper and “Thani” meaning water. As the name suggests, it was originally Pepper Water. However in course of time a lot of other ingredients, such coconut, meat and other spices were added to give it a completely different flavour. The dish quickly became popular throughout the colonies of the Common Wealth.

However, over a period of time, the authentic Anglo Indian dishes are hard to find and the rich variety of the cuisine threatens to disappear into oblivion.

Let us take a quick look at some heritage menu selections :

DEVILLED EGGS AND HAM CASSEROLE
FISH CAKES
LAMB MINCE PANTHERAS
MULLIGATAWNY SOUP
THE BROWN SAHIB CHICKEN SOUP
ARMY CAMP SOUP (MUTTON)
LAMB CUTLETS
POTATO CHOPS
FRICADELLUS (FISH CUTLETS)
LEMON FISH CREPE
PORK SPARE RIBS
STEAMROLLER CHICKEN WITH ROSEMARY POTATOES AND GARLIC BREAD
GRANDMA’S COUNTRY CAPTAIN CHICKEN WITH ONION PILAF AND CAULIFLOWER MORNAY
RAILWAY MUTTON CURRY AND BUTTER FRIED RICE
DAK BUNGLA MUTTON
PORK BHUNIE WITH TOMATO PILAF & MAJOR GREY’S MANGO CHUTNEY
PORK VINDALOO AND YELLOW COCONUT RICE
JHALFREZIE
SHEPHERD’S PIE
CHICKEN & CARROT CASSEROLE
CUSTARD

By : Devraj Halder              

Bohras - The Muslim Cuisine of Gujarat

If there’s a community in Muslim which truly lives by the maxim of ‘Live To Eat Rather Than Eat To Live’ it is Bohras !

The Bohras believe that any occasion is an occasion to break bread together and this in essence is both their joie de vivre and the raison d’etre of their existence. Depending on the occasion, the food can be minimalist.

Contemporary to popular perception, bohra cuisine encompasses both vegetarian and non vegetarian specialities though which is the later that is more popular. In fact it is a well guarded secret that one of the premier bohra speciality is a pure vegetarian dish;  DAL CHAWAL PALIDA.

This vegetarian delicacy is almost standard for any occasion for celebration in most traditional bohra homes. The only enduring characteristic about any bohra meal is the principle of ‘FAMILY THAT EATS TOGETHER STAYS TOGETHER’

Sunni bohras are a sunni muslim community found in province of sind in Pakistan and the state of gujarat in India. Daudi bohra sunni and overwhelming majority of the gujarati speaking bohra community of Pakistan lives in a port city of Karachi in sind province.

Some of the mouth watering dishes of bohra cuisine are; HARA MASALA GOSHT, BOHRA FISH CURRY, AB MURGH, BOHRA BOTI KEBAB, BOHARA BITIN KEBAB, BOHARAS MUTTON BIRYANI, DAHI KI KADI, PHOOL VATANA, BATATA KA SALAN,  SEER KHURMA, BOHRA ZARDA.

Bohra cuisine is quite distinct from the more well known and popular mughlai food.it is mainly non vegetarian but has some interesting gujarati influence, however there are some clear differences. For instance, asafoetida is an integral part of gujarati cuisine while bohra food is totally devoid of this ingredient. It is the HARA MASALA which is an important part of almost every bohra dish, including even an omelette !

Bohras table manners  are :

• EATING IS IBADAT
• BEFORE EATING AND AFTER EATING WASH HANDS
• BEFORE START EATING SAY BISMILLAH
• AFTER FINISH EATING SAY ALHAMADLILLAH
• NEVER EAT WITH LEFT HAND
• EAT WITH ALL FIVE FINGERS

                                                                      Aab Murgh

By : Devraj Halder

Delicious Uttar Pradesh

India’s most populous state is a heaven for trekkers, wildlifers, hill station enthusiasts, history lovers and foodies. It showcases a variety of cuisines including pure Hindu vegetarian, majestic Nawabi Muslim and rugged and simple hill fare. In Hindu homes, food is treated with ritual sanctity and the person who cooks must be higher up on the caste ladder. However the ordinary street food of Varanasi, Agra , Lucknow and Allahabad is finger-licking-delicious. Breakfast bought from a pushcart or a thela where you get hot kachories with delicious potatoes in a dal gravy and nukti ka raita which is a raita with droplets of fried gram flour. You can also find hot jalebis that you can crunch on to complete your meal. If you are in Varanasi, you can start your day by watching the sunrise over the Ganges and follow it up with a meal of the delectable vegetarian fare and its is sure to be a revelation as to how the simple food can be so tasty without even onion or garlic. For special dishes a touch of  khoya, malai or dried fruit is added. The humble potato is a perennial and a versatile favourite. Other vegetables include pumpkin, cauliflower, okra, brinjal, spinach and a variety of gourds.

A standard meal comprises of phulkas, dal, chawal, and a subzi made with seasonal vegetables. A wedding lunch would be more elaborate and would be served on a pattal, which is a leaf plate and would include two or three varieties of poori, three to four rasedaar subzi ( a potato-pumpkin subzi is a must) and a few dry subzis, and a paneer, pulao and raita, Fried papad, is followed up by several sweets and finally the meal ends with paan.

The people of this massive state have a soft spot for sweets and an abundance of milk and sugar caters to their cravings. The basic ingredient for sweets is khoya. There are myriad varieties of pedas and burfis. If Varanasi is the center of the Hindu culture then Lucknow is its Muslim counterpart. Kormas, kalias and the kebabs are known far and wide . Overall Uttar Pradesh offers a good selection and variety of gastronomic fare and along with its history and heritage the state serves as a great representation as to how the country eats !

Delicious Recipe :  Bhatti Ka Aloo

Ingredients

Potato                                        500 gms

Cumin Seeds                             05 gms

Cloves                                        05 nos

Ground Green Cardamom`        a tsp

Cinnamon Sticks                       02 nos. small

Bayleaves                                  02 nos

Asafoetida ( hing )                     a pinch

Tomatoes                                  100 gms chopped

Ginger paste                               01 tbsp

Turmeric powder                        01 tsp

Cumin powder                            01 tsp

Salt                                              to taste

Garam Masala  powder             01 tsp

Amchur powder                          02 tsp

Green chillies slit                       06 nos

Coriander leaves chopped         30 gms

Onion seeds ( kalonji)                a pinch

Desi Ghee                                  50 gms

Preparation :

Boil and peel the potatoes. Heat the ghee in a kadhai, add cumin, cloves, caradamom, cinnamon, bayleaves and asafoetida. When the spices release the aroma add the tomatoes and cook until they dissolve. Now add all the powdered masalas. Add the potatoes add little water and the salt. Add the green chillies, kalonji, a little desi ghee and the fresh coriander and serve hot.

By : Devraj Halder