Monday, 7 January 2013

Royal Cuisine of Amér


Amér was built by Raja Man Singh I. The ancient princely state gave rise to a royal cuisine. Amer was known for its artistic style blending both Hindu and Rajput elements. Later Raja Man Singh also the commander in chief of Akbar’s army took the legacy forward.

The proud warrior kings who went on hunting expeditions ate the meat or the fowl that they brought back for their beautiful and illustrious queens in shikars. Even today princely feasts flaunt meat cuisines that are incomparable. In contrast are the vegetarian repertoire, the food cooked in pure ghee is famous for its mouth- watering aroma. Curries are based on the use of pulses or gram flour. Dry fruits, spices and yogurt are used in many delicacies. Also the land of Jai Singh I and Sawai Jai Singh II, Amer shows off many a fine gastronomic heritage both within the palaces and outside.

In royal kitchens the preparation of food was a complex matter and was raised to the levels of an art form. The 'Khansamas' (the royal cooks) worked in the stately palaces and kept their most enigmatic recipes to themselves. Some recipes were passed on to their descendants and the rest passed on as skills to the chefs of semi states.

Cooking was inclined to the war-like lifestyle of the medieval Rajasthan and the availability of ingredients of the region. Food that could last for several days and could be eaten without heating was preferred, more out of necessity than choice. Scarcity of water, fresh green vegetables have had their effect on cooking.

Some of the popular dishes include- Karhi, popularly known as khatta, made of buttermilk with chickpea flour, mustard seeds and crushed garlic, cooked on slow heat. 'Gatte ka saag', cooked with freshly made dumplings of chickpea flour, 'badi ka saag' prepared with sun-dried moth-lentil dumplings. Khichra a porridge of millets and moth lentils that is cooked along with water, spice and some ghee in combination with jaggery or karhi forms a staple part of the diet. The hot red-chilli-and-garlic chutney, 'raabori' and millet flour cooked in buttermilk were popular accompaniments. Sangri and ker (desert berries), vegetables such as okra, jackfruit, eggplant, mustard and methi leaves. Over the years the variety of dishes were cooked with same unique techniques that passed on generation to generation. Other typical delicacies are Dal-baati, Panchkoota, Laapsi, Chaavadi, Ghoogri, Guwar fali ki saag, Papad ki sabji, Meethe Chawal.

Lal Maas meat cooked in blazing red chillies curry, Mohan Maas meat cooked in milk, Safed Maas meat cooked in curd, Saanth ro achaar pickled wild boar meat and Khad khargosh wild hare cooked and roasted underground are few highlights of the meat delicacies of this royal state. The Rajas also had a famous sweet tooth; Ghevar, Churma, Besan Chakki, Jhajariya, Halwa, Palangtorh are delicacies. Spices include red chillies, cardamom, turmeric, pepper, mustard seeds, cloves, cinnamon sticks and use of pure desi ghee, onions, garlic, ginger, dry fruits and saffron.

The selection of these truly sumptuous silver-platter is an assortment of curries, chutneys, pickles, meats, veggies, breads, rice and sweet all on one must try juxtaposition ! 

Rajputana Lal Maas

Khad Murgh
 
By : Devraj Halder

Saturday, 29 December 2012

Whats in a Banquet !


There are only two tangential views that exist on banqueting; one, it is a gluttons paradise and for the other it is a distasteful concept of communal dining !

The debate is not about which side you are on, it is about something which we can just not ignore. So what exactly is trending in banqueting and what makes this traditional service more inviting and connected to the present genre.

What is trending in contemporary banqueting.....

  • Customised live cooking stations
  • Customised cooking methods
  • Live modular kitchens with modern equipments
  • Customised menus
  • Snazzy beverages in exquisite glassware 
  • Focal point - a great beverage bar
  • World cuisines
  • Micro menus
  • Ethnic cuisines
  • Health trends in popular fare; large hand tossed salad and pizza bar etc, seafood, world barbecues, Japanese food.
The upscale client needs..

  • Food and beverage styling
  • Fresh ingredients and their visibility
  • Cooking concepts in each finalized stations
  • Amuse bouche instead of appetizers in plenty
  • Modern-ethnic serviceware
  • Great variety and greater detailing
 A WOW banquet menu..

  • Selections and combinations offered
  • Customised menu and concepts by one to one discussion with the chefs
  • Food styling by one to one discussion with specialized chefs
  • Diversity in cuisines
  • Tasting menus
  • A great cocktail menu. Good wines.
 What executes a great party event.. 

  • Trained and enthusiastic personnel
  • Quantum of manpower
  • Synchronization of services and crispness in delivery
  • Logistics
  • Themes
  • Timing
Mark your USP..
  • Planning and its implementation
  • Concepts and its implementation

By : Devraj Halder

Sunday, 16 December 2012

Mulled Wine






Winters are back and beautiful as always. The hillscapes already done a sparkling new white blanket and the flatlands enjoy the refreshing cold breeze. The nip in the air is great for the heartwarming wines mulled to perfection. It is an exquisite art to heat certain wines with some subtle aromats thrown in. The release of the inherent flavors of the terroir along with the dash of added flavors create a warm elixir just perfect for another new winter.

The best fruit for making mulled wine is rough dark red grapes. It has the right equilibrium of sugar, acids (tartaric, malic, ascorbic ), yeast nutrients, tannins and water content.
Country wines with plenty of tannin do well. Bilberry, damson, blackberry, black plum and blackcurrant.  The rough wines do better than the good ones when mulling them. That also suggests a smart way to improve and enjoy these wines which is also just right for the season.

Wines from Portugal, Spain, Hungary, Italy or Chile suit better as they typically have a deep fruity flavor and lots of rustic structure, again perfect for mulling.
Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay from Chile, Marques De Riscal Rueda from Spain, Alfa Romeo Red from Italy are to name a few. Martel XO and Hennessy XO are my personal favorites to compliment the mulled wine.

 
Dried and pitted fruits like, apricot, punes are great. Also spices like, sweet cinnamon, vanilla go well. 


Traditionally mulled wines go well in a glogg wine glass or mug which is a  dual-walled thermal glass and help keep contents warmer in cold winter night outside. Mulled wine pitcher or warmer and festive felt wool coaster pack are also available. A brandy snifter is also a practical glass to serve it.

Happy mulling this winter !

By :

Devraj Halder
 


Sunday, 2 September 2012

The meat and potato man !

At times I wonder how this phrase would have come about to be coined. Since the evolution of mankind the meat was hunted and cooked with potatoes ( read ‘roots’ ). This was among the first staples of the human man. The one-pot cooking processes were congenial to this kind of food and their preparation/s.
I can already visualize those mammoth steaming cauldrons of thick soupy meat set over logs of smoldering wood awaited by cold and hungry folklore.
Fancy colored vegetables are relatively modern in relation to the discussion at hand. They are all discoveries or rather inventions of mankind. What existed with the test of time were the fleshy tubers. The colored vegetables seem feeble and quite alienated in combination or comparison to the might of the meat ! Only a true vegetable of the soil could match up !.. The potato.
There is something similar to how the meat and potato ( read ‘roots’ ) behave while they are cooked. The slow cooked meats with the tubers lend, body, texture, volume and depth to the preparation. It is a great example of balance, homogeneity and basic yet intrinsic well-being.
The slow release of the sugars and starch and the tenderizing effect it lends each other is quite delicious. This is comfort food in true sense. This is no nonsense food in true sense.

It would be safe to say that the meat not only compliment the potato (it can be turnips !) in terms of combination but also supplements in terms of nourishment, satiety and satisfaction.
There is something extremely earthy about this comforting amalgamation of food. It is like a warmly-welcoming and home-coming proposition when you actually look forward to this meal. This is also the meal for the true toiler.
No feast is complete without this duo at the centre-spread inviting hungry eyes and turning salivating heads waiting for you to just roll up your sleeves and dig in !  
Steak and potato, hearty meat stew with chunky onions, turnips and potato, chops and onions, chicken and fries, roast and mash, grills and wedges, shalgum gosht, all have a story to tell.
Well I know lot of men who give two hoots about any clan of vegetables that come their way. They believe that a meal can only be complete with these delicious potatoes and chunky caramelized meats.
I don’t find anything wrong in that belief after all we are creatures of the soil. In fact it also goes that these very men live to eat than eat to live and interestingly are the most boisterous and earthy individuals you can come across.

Hail the meat and potato man !
By : Devraj Halder

Tuesday, 21 August 2012

Nostalgic Food Tour of Hyderabad

Specially we in India and connoisseurs of food all over the world have had a special corner for Hyderabadi food. In Hyderabad's 400 year history the Hyderabadi cuisine has, like its culture, stood high and quite unmatched by any other place in the Indian subcontinent. In fact, Hyderabad is known for the spectacular way its aristocracy entertained. The erstwhile rulers of Hyderabad were connoisseurs of food and insisted that their cooks lay out elaborate ten-course meals on a daily basis.

The Hyderabadis do have rather unusual ways of seasoning their food. Hyderabadi cuisine is a distinct dialogue in food, based on the traditional method of combining the sour and the sweet, the hot and the salty. Hyderabad has taken the highly developed and refined Mughal cuisine of the North and imbibed it with the zesty sauces and spices of the South to create a vast and seductive repertoire quite its own. Hyderabadi food, as it has come to be known, like the city's culture, heritage and language, is a mélange of several influences--Hindu, Muslim, North, South, Indian and foreign.

As they say here, food is best created with fursat and mohabbat -- that is with time and love. Being devoted to Hyderabad means being devoted to food. Here, food is not just something to fill the stomach; it is the very essence of life. The quintessential Hyderabadi is known for his nawabi lifestyle - a gracious but rather laid-back way of life. But when it comes to food, the Hyderabadis won't tolerate any laziness and have very exacting standards.

Welcome to the treasure trove of heritage Hyderabadi cuisine at its best, whether in the form ustaad’s legacy or nawab’s rendezvous.

In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful... !


Spectaculer dishes include Jhinga Talawa( a delicately pan-fried prawn), Khorme Ka Kebab( pounded meat kebabs served with til ki chutney), Dum Ka Keema( charcoal flavored minced meat with papaya and serve with garlic raita), Mutthi Ke Kebab( from old world muslim elegance a  with spicy gravy), Bina Masale Ka Murg ( a simple marination representing the true essence of the tender chicken ), Shami Kebab (Pan-fried kebab prepared with lamb and tastes best after you get to see the sacred moon of Eid ! ), Nizami Lukhmi( a traditional preparation), Kheemey ki Lukhmi, Tootak (The baked delicacy has rich semolina dough encasing a appetizing cottage cheese and potato filling), Aloo Ke Garlay( This is an ostentatious version of the popular batata wada )Boote Ke Samose (crispy samosa with spicy green gram filling) ,Hari Bhari Mirchi (stuffed chili with mint chutney ), Faluda( a refreshing dessert) and finally the Irani Chai( popular tea from a Charminar fete ! )

By : Devraj Halder