The meat and potato man !

At times I wonder how this phrase would have come about to be coined. Since the evolution of mankind the meat was hunted and cooked with potatoes ( read ‘roots’ ). This was among the first staples of the human man. The one-pot cooking processes were congenial to this kind of food and their preparation/s.

I can already visualize those mammoth steaming cauldrons of thick soupy meat set over logs of smoldering wood awaited by cold and hungry folklore.

Fancy colored vegetables are relatively modern in relation to the discussion at hand. They are all discoveries or rather inventions of mankind. What existed with the test of time were the fleshy tubers. The colored vegetables seem feeble and quite alienated in combination or comparison to the might of the meat ! Only a true vegetable of the soil could match up !.. The potato.

There is something similar to how the meat and potato ( read ‘roots’ ) behave while they are cooked. The slow cooked meats with the tubers lend, body, texture, volume and depth to the preparation. It is a great example of balance, homogeneity and basic yet intrinsic well-being.

The slow release of the sugars and starch and the tenderizing effect it lends each other is quite delicious. This is comfort food in true sense. This is no nonsense food in true sense.

It would be safe to say that the meat not only compliment the potato (it can be turnips !) in terms of combination but also supplements in terms of nourishment, satiety and satisfaction.

There is something extremely earthy about this comforting amalgamation of food. It is like a warmly-welcoming and home-coming proposition when you actually look forward to this meal. This is also the meal for the true toiler.

No feast is complete without this duo at the centre-spread inviting hungry eyes and turning salivating heads waiting for you to just roll up your sleeves and dig in !  

Steak and potato, hearty meat stew with chunky onions, turnips and potato, chops and onions, chicken and fries, roast and mash, grills and wedges, shalgum gosht, all have a story to tell.

Well I know lot of men who give two hoots about any clan of vegetables that come their way. They believe that a meal can only be complete with these delicious potatoes and chunky caramelized meats.

I don’t find anything wrong in that belief after all we are creatures of the soil. In fact it also goes that these very men live to eat than eat to live and interestingly are the most boisterous and earthy individuals you can come across.

Hail the meat and potato man !

By : Devraj Halder

Nostalgic Food Tour of Hyderabad

Specially we in India and connoisseurs of food all over the world have had a special corner for Hyderabadi food. In Hyderabad's 400 year history the Hyderabadi cuisine has, like its culture, stood high and quite unmatched by any other place in the Indian subcontinent. In fact, Hyderabad is known for the spectacular way its aristocracy entertained. The erstwhile rulers of Hyderabad were connoisseurs of food and insisted that their cooks lay out elaborate ten-course meals on a daily basis.

The Hyderabadis do have rather unusual ways of seasoning their food. Hyderabadi cuisine is a distinct dialogue in food, based on the traditional method of combining the sour and the sweet, the hot and the salty. Hyderabad has taken the highly developed and refined Mughal cuisine of the North and imbibed it with the zesty sauces and spices of the South to create a vast and seductive repertoire quite its own. Hyderabadi food, as it has come to be known, like the city's culture, heritage and language, is a mélange of several influences--Hindu, Muslim, North, South, Indian and foreign.

As they say here, food is best created with fursat and mohabbat -- that is with time and love. Being devoted to Hyderabad means being devoted to food. Here, food is not just something to fill the stomach; it is the very essence of life. The quintessential Hyderabadi is known for his nawabi lifestyle - a gracious but rather laid-back way of life. But when it comes to food, the Hyderabadis won't tolerate any laziness and have very exacting standards.

Welcome to the treasure trove of heritage Hyderabadi cuisine at its best, whether in the form ustaad’s legacy or nawab’s rendezvous.

In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful... !

Spectaculer dishes include Jhinga Talawa( a delicately pan-fried prawn), Khorme Ka Kebab( pounded meat kebabs served with til ki chutney), Dum Ka Keema( charcoal flavored minced meat with papaya and serve with garlic raita), Mutthi Ke Kebab( from old world muslim elegance a  with spicy gravy), Bina Masale Ka Murg ( a simple marination representing the true essence of the tender chicken ), Shami Kebab (Pan-fried kebab prepared with lamb and tastes best after you get to see the sacred moon of Eid ! ), Nizami Lukhmi( a traditional preparation), Kheemey ki Lukhmi, Tootak (The baked delicacy has rich semolina dough encasing a appetizing cottage cheese and potato filling), Aloo Ke Garlay( This is an ostentatious version of the popular batata wada )Boote Ke Samose (crispy samosa with spicy green gram filling) ,Hari Bhari Mirchi (stuffed chili with mint chutney ), Faluda( a refreshing dessert) and finally the Irani Chai( popular tea from a Charminar fete ! )

By : Devraj Halder

Life and Career as a Chef..

“ .. Hi chef , can you tell me the recipe of… ”

“ …. egg less cakes ! how do you make them… ”

“ ……. am looking for some real low cal stuff, can you help.. ”

“ ………. how about some quick party snacks.. ”

…. Only a chef is familiar with these relentless, unavoidable questions the moment he steps out of his domain, trying to take time off his chefs jacket.. welcome to the social life of a chef .. off course he is a ladies man.. but to the extent of good food & recipes !

Nevertheless, life as a chef is highly interesting and varied. The package includes action packed days, tense moments, great ups and equally great lows, a lot of different people to meet and also a lot of riddles to solve. Overall, it is not as monotonous and routine as so many other professions.

A chef needs to have his creative juices flowing, it is a profession which needs skill as well as a lot of thought process. Results achievable are quite delicately balanced as the job involves coming out with the best, from the team. The job of the chef, incorporates most of the important management subjects; he needs to be a great organiser and planner, he is also a quality manager and materials manager and he needs to know his cost accountancy thoroughly. He also needs to understand the varied human resources aspect, as he works with so many different kind of people. He knows the best, as to how to market his food and he is also well versed with the technical angles and infrastructure of his kitchen. Overall the job is quite diverse. Added to this, leadership and charismatic skills go a long way, in making a great chef.

All these don’t come easy, a good chef is a product of years of toil and going through the grind, in understanding these finer aspects of his profession. It needs a lot of self motivation, self initiation and also a ‘go-getter’ attitude.

A fresher usually joins the kitchen brigade with the armoury of his love for food and cooking. He also finds it a lucrative profession. As he proceeds further, the diversity and magnitude of the operation , awes him. This is where it is most crucial. This is where he gets to see the realistic content of the profession , this either releases his ambitious nature and fuels his aspirations to get to the top and ignites his passion in true sense, to make a mark in the industry and go after his primary likeness, for food and cooking or it deflates his hopes as the going gets tough. This is where comes the saying, ‘when the going gets tough the tough gets going’ .

Once the young chef has decided and embarked on his journey in the culinary field, everyday becomes a myriad experience, he learns and becomes mature, he correlates his job with his own creativity and overcomes one hurdle after another. It is like a ‘mirage’ , each opportunity opens up newer challenges and the taste of success prompts to explore for newer and tougher challenges.

This profession does provide attainment of a high level of job satisfaction and the hard work and perseverance required, then looks quite worth it.

Just a word of caution though, fresh aspirants in the profession should understand that the foundation of the building needs to be strong for it to grow tall, any aspirations based on glamour does not last for long, it is the focused approach to learn the basics well, without shortcuts, and practise and perfect their skills, which take a chef a long way.

Life and career as a chef, is quite an experience. Go for it, if the words which describe you are, passionate, tenacious, creative, physically fit and you want to do something meaningful. In true sense, it is a profession for the brave yet warm hearted.

 

By : Devraj Halder

Dark Foods !

Well there is a dark side to food too ! But strangely we are not discussing anything evil or negative in nature today. With food, the darker it is, the better it is for you. 

From cliched black rice to black tea, black is back. For many cultures, dark-hued foods have long been a diet staple. Like in Latin cooking, count on frijoles negros to be prominent on your plate. Pakchoi, kale and lollo rosso are popular. Well now, 'dark foods' is the hot, enticing culinary trend. Beyond the ever-changing food fads, dark food isn't just a novelty; it is a nutritional powerhouse that is part of a healthy diet.  Black food is in and has all to do with improved awarness.

For centuries, black food has been part of a traditional Asian diet. According to ancient Chinese medicine, dark foods nourish the blood and are considered a tonic for the kidneys that are tied to a person's energy channel. The consumption of black food is believed to revitalize the body, promote healthy organ function and balance and regulate the system. Today it has become a fashionable health food the world over. Upscale menus feature black mushrooms, black soy and black vinegar, having the most-nutritious-food title. In fact, deep pigments are known to pack antioxidants that help fight heart disease, inflammation and various cancers, just to name a few.

Few of these dark-colored foods may be a better option which experts recommend for healthier living :

• Blackberries, Blueberries, Dark Cherries, Raspberry, Pomegranate – They boast antioxidants galore. The polyphenols have shown to reduce colon cancer cells and prevent chronic inflammatory diseases.
• Black beans – They house more fiber and anti-disease nutrients than their lighter bean counterparts. Black bean skin contains 24 plant compounds that help slow the development of colon, liver and breast cancer cells.
• Black rice – Brown rice is a great whole grain food but black rice packs disease-fighting vitamins in addition to good digestive properties. Red and purple rice have also been a long-time favorite throughout Asia,  the deep pigments help to reduce cardiovascular disease.
• Black tea – Green and oolong teas are healthy favorites, but health experts have found that darker tea may help to protect the heart, in addition to lowering risk for cancer and neurological problems that often come hand-in-hand with age. 

Other great dark-colored foods include black mushrooms, red-potatoes, spinach, red beet, broccoli, edamame, asparagus, plums, dark chocolate, tomato, even carrots and red wine. Which also means in terms of plant-based foods those that fall on the darker end of the color spectrum tend to be the healthiest. The benefits come from anthocyanins, the pigments that give fruit and vegetables their deep color, like the blue in blueberries, the purple in eggplants and the near black in blackberries. Anthocyanins are powerful antioxidants that protect the human cells. Many of the dark ingredients also find a place in  top 10 'Super Foods'.

Wearing black is known to make you look slimmer, but eating black food can actually help you lose weight. Making better food choices is the nutritional cornerstone to achieving and maintaining a healthy weight. One way to do that is by choosing more dark colored food. Just by swapping out light for dark, like whole grain or rye bread for white, or pale lettuce for dark green, you will be adding nutrients and flavor without adding calories. 

People are discovering all kinds of black food like black carrots, black eel and black chicken. But if you are not up for a culinary adventure, you can still inject your daily diet with a healthy dose of black by choosing your foods with thought and tact. 

By : 

Devraj Halder

Gourmet Tour - The Streets of Istanbul

My 'tasting-notes' now take you on an enchanting and gastronomic journey of the imperial city of Istanbul which features a cuisine with wide variety of ingredients and cooking styles which include dishes and ideas from the cuisine of Jews, Greeks and Armenians.

The Southeast and the East are known for dishes based on cracked wheat and meat with hot spices while the Aegean for their olive oil delicacies enhanced with local herbs.

The narrow and cobbled streets of Istanbul are abuzz with exotic foods like gyros, grills, fried meats, kebaps, stews, meat cooked in a crock or pan, simit; a bread like a bagel and börek.

Turkish cuisine is believed to be one of the three richest and oldest cooking traditions of the world together with French and Chinese cooking.

A gourmet tour can be exotic. You can savour a long list of Turkish delicacies. It is like biting into a large slice of history ;

Doner Kebab

homemade chicken gyros, thinly sliced and served with bulgur salad, mezze and freshly baked lebanese breads

Schwarma

homemade lamb schwarma, thinly sliced and served with bulgur salad, mezze and freshly baked lebanese breads

Mevsim Salata

lettuce, sliced tomatoes, cucumbers and feta cheese served with olive oil, lemon juice and a drizzle of vinegar
Coban Salata

diced tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, roast aubergine, dill and onion dressed with olive oil, lemon juice and vinegar

Kisir (Tabuleh)

cracked wheat lightly flavored with tomato paste, parsley and onions

Izgara Kofte ( Turkish Style Meatballs )

ground lamb kofte served with salad and hummus

Chicken Sheesh Touk

turkish sheeh kebab served with mezze and freshly baked lebanese breads

Lamb Samboussek

deep fried lebanese pastry filled with minced lamb and pine nut

Fatiyer bil – Sabanegh

spinach and haloumi cheese filled pies paired with mezze

Falafel

chick pea and parsley crispies with mezze and pita breads

Breads

Taze Gevrek

delicious crispy simit (turkish bagel)

Ispanikli Börek

traditional spinach and cheese baked filled pastries made of a thin flakes

Dessert

Baklava

sultans homemade buttery dough filled with nuts and served with honey syrup

Mohallabiah with Almond

delectable signature dessert from mediterranean region

By :

Devraj Halder

Tajik Cuisine - The beginning of the spice trail

Tajikistan means the ‘Land of the Tajiks’. In medieval Persian literature, Tajik appears as a synonym of ‘Persian’. This mountaneous land locked country with Persian speaking Tajik ethnic group, the territory of which is now the Republic of Tajikistan has been inhabited continuously since 4000 BC. It has been under the rule of various empires throughout history, for the longest period being part of the Persian Empire.

Arabs brought Islam in the 7th century, more or less forcing the people to convert. The predominantly ethnic Tajik cities of Samarkand and Bukhara remained in the Uzbek SSR. The proportion of Russian among Tajikistan's population meanwhile also grew. Post the political turbulence and the civil war Tajikistan is officially a republic and holds elections for the presidency and parliament. The government of India rebuilt the Ayni air base, a military airport southwest of capital Dushanbe, It is now the main base of the Tajikistan air force.

The long and eventful history of the Tajiks have given rise to a varied and enigmatic cuisine.

The Persian lineage and the muslim community has given the cuisine of the Tajiks its own personality with characteristic influence like the usage of abundant dried fruits, local fresh fruits and vegetables, goat milk yoghurt, robust home made breads like rye, wheat and non, hearty soups like the solyanka, great varieties in unique sheesh kekobs, aromatic and rich pilau, sambusa, lemon cake and much more. The Tajiks believe in festivity and their culture is equally glamorous. The food is hearty and delicious. 

A typical meal starts with Halva ( essentially made of wheat ). Appetizers include Shashlyk Lipioshka ( tender lamb shashlik served with flat bread and sliced onion) , Seekh Kebob ( minced vegetarian and meat on skewers), Sambusa (minced turkey filled fritters), Vatushiki (spinach and cheese filled deep fried crispies). Popular soups are Shorpur Laghman (meat and vegetable soup with noodles), Kaurmo Shurbo (vegetable soup ), Mastoba ( rice soup ).

Choykhana is local green tea which accompanies a hearty meal. Other beverages include Kefir ( fermented milk beverage ).

Some typical salads are Hissar (traditional tajik salad), Stuffed Aubergine Salad. Fresh whole fruits, fresh whole vegetables and a variety dried fruits and nuts are a regular part of a balanced meal. Several dips and dressings are also prepared to lend variety and compliment a meal.

The main meal includes Mantu or Tushbera (similar to ravioli with vegetable/ meat and spices), Shakhlet, Kaurdak kaimak (roast meat servedwith fried onion and sour cream), Golubtsi (Stuffed cabbage rolls with tomato broth), Qurutob (baked vegetable with salted yogurt and flaxseed oil).

Oshi Pluv ( traditional tajik pulao) and Domlama (mutton with assorted tajik vegetables) are delicious rice preparations, provide great insight on the Biryani that we eat today how it evolved from Persia !

Breads include Non, Sambusa Baraki( tajik bread), Katlama (puff flat cakes).Typical desserts are Shirbhirinj (milk pudding) and Halvaitar (liquid flour halva).

It is mystical to think and realise that it all started here the beginning of the spice trail from the Turkish coasts all the way to China and also to Afghanistan and further to India. Tajikistan played such a pivotal role and the thoroughfare helped cultures change hands along with the passage of bounty that the trail witnessed for centuries !

By : Devraj Halder

Menu Trends 2012

Multi cuisine is more or less out and multi specialty is in. Discerning customers of today want to savor specialized world cuisine/s seated on the same table. Hence the need for restaurants to hire multi cultural chefs to keep the cuisine/s alive.  The trends are also going the ingredient way; menus which boast of customized ingredients from across the globe stand an edge.

As far as presentation goes, the trend which started sometime back of beauty in simplicity is going great guns. The concept has evolved extremely well and is all set to change the very essence of food presentations. All kinds of tacky, cluttered, multicolored mish-mash is definitely out. As far as food is concerned the ingredients are suddenly visible and not under layers of marinations, accompaniments, sauces and gravies. The visible ingredients are fresh, natural, subtle, appetizing and bold !

 

The great news is that Indian ethnic food is getting a quick make over in Indian restaurants. New-age Indian food is in and we’ve got to make it stay. It gives a whole new dimension to how Indian food was always perceived and now that the sophistication is creeping in steadily it opens up new challenges to the Indian chefs to put on his creative caps and also keep the heritage and culinary depth of the cuisine alive.  Indian food is also set to find new alliances getting married to global wines as the trend is picking up big way.

Health Café, Health Bar, Haute Cuisine, Tuscan, Albanian, Iberian, Tahitian; the new-age customers have developed insatiable palette for more and the versatile. So bring it all on, there will be hardly any eye-brows raised !

In todays scenario it is also very important to be aware. Ponder on the following :

I.  Healthy and fresh ingredients are not so healthy any more most of them are laden with harmful chemicals so the most basic thing is to wash them really well, again and again. Look out for any signs of discoloration, bitterness or even allergic reactions .

II. Brush up your knowledge on Genetically Modified foods( GM Foods). They always look the most attractive and healthy in the supermarket but look for valid accreditions. 

III. Always buy food which can be traced back. Like branded rice, flour, grains, cereals, milk even sweets are still better than to buy them from the open market. Food adulteration is so rampant you will never know what is the real thing !

The mantra for 2012 would be to rededicate oneself to provide culinary surprises, exemplary cuisines and out-of-the-box concepts and experiences.

By : Devraj Halder